Fencing companies love to advertise per-metre rates. "$85 per metre for Colorbond!" sounds simple enough. You measure your boundary, multiply, and budget accordingly. Then the actual quote arrives at twice what you expected.
That per-metre rate is a starting point, not a total cost. Here's everything that sits on top of it — and how to build a realistic budget from the start.
Per-metre rate vs. real cost: a worked example
Let's say you need 40 metres of Colorbond fencing. Advertised rate: $95/m. Simple maths: $3,800. Here's what the actual quote looks like:
| Line item | Cost |
|---|---|
| 40m Colorbond panels + posts, installed @ $95/m | $3,800 |
| Old fence removal and disposal (40m timber) | $1,000 |
| Slope adjustment (moderate slope, 15m section stepped) | $900 |
| Rock-breaking (4 post holes hit sandstone) | $400 |
| 1× pedestrian gate | $550 |
| 2× corner posts (heavy-duty) | $180 |
| Concrete for all posts | $320 |
| Actual total | $7,150 |
That's 88% more than the per-metre calculation. And this is a straightforward job — no pool fencing, no heritage overlays, no retaining walls. Let's break down each of these extras.
Old fence removal — $15–$40 per metre
Unless you're fencing a bare block, someone has to pull out the existing fence. The cost depends on what's there:
| Existing fence type | Removal cost per metre |
|---|---|
| Timber paling (standard) | $15–$25 |
| Colorbond (bolt-on panels) | $15–$20 |
| Wire mesh / chain link | $10–$18 |
| Timber post and rail | $20–$30 |
| Brick or stone wall | $40–$80 |
| Concrete slab with posts | $30–$50 |
On top of the per-metre removal cost, add skip bin or tip run fees: $200–$600 depending on volume. Some fencing companies include removal in their per-metre rate; others don't. Always check.
The slope factor — 30–80% cost increase
This is the single biggest cost surprise for homeowners. Flat blocks are cheap to fence. Sloping blocks are not — and most Australian suburban blocks aren't perfectly flat.
On a slope, every panel needs to be either stepped (each panel level but offset vertically from its neighbour, creating a staircase effect) or raked (each panel angled to follow the ground). Both approaches require more posts, more cutting, more measuring, and significantly more labour.
Post hole surprises — $50–$150 per hole
Every fence post needs a hole roughly 600mm deep (deeper for corner and end posts), filled with concrete. On soft, sandy, or loamy soil, an auger drills through in seconds. But hit any of the following and the job slows dramatically: rock or bedrock (common in Sydney's sandstone and Melbourne's basalt areas), heavy clay (expands and contracts seasonally, requiring deeper holes), tree roots (may need arborist consultation if near significant trees), or underground services (water, gas, electrical, NBN — requires hand-digging around them).
Rock-breaking adds $50–$150 per post hole. If your block has rocky or root-heavy soil, mention it to the fencer upfront so the quote accounts for it. Better yet, walk the fence line with them before they quote.
The neighbour equation
Under Australian fencing legislation (each state has its own Fences Act), boundary fences are generally a shared cost. In theory, your neighbour pays half. In practice, it's more complicated than that.
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Issue a fencing notice
Your state's consumer affairs body has templates. The notice must describe the proposed work, provide at least one quote, and specify the estimated cost and each party's share.
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Allow 30 days for response
Your neighbour has at least 30 days to respond. They can agree, propose alternatives, or dispute the need for the work.
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Negotiate if needed
If your neighbour wants a cheaper option (e.g., timber instead of Colorbond), you can agree or you pay the difference. If they want a more expensive option, they pay the difference.
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Proceed with work
Once agreed (or after 30 days with no response, depending on your state), proceed with the fencing. Keep all receipts.
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Recover their share
If your neighbour agreed but hasn't paid, you can pursue their share through your state's tribunal (e.g., VCAT in Victoria, NCAT in NSW). If they never responded, the process varies by state.
Got a fencing quote? Check how it stacks up against typical prices in your area.
Check Fencing Costs in Your City →Council permits and compliance
Most residential fences under 2 metres don't need a council permit. But several common scenarios do require one:
| Scenario | Permit needed? | Typical cost |
|---|---|---|
| Standard boundary fence under 2m | Usually no | — |
| Fence over 2m height | Yes (most councils) | $200–$800 |
| Front fence (street-facing) | Often yes (varies by council) | $200–$600 |
| Heritage overlay zone | Yes | $300–$1,200 |
| Pool fence (new or replacement) | Yes — must comply with AS 1926.1 | $200–$500 + inspection |
| Fence requiring retaining wall | Often yes (engineering cert needed) | $500–$2,000 |
Gates and hardware
Gates are often the most underestimated cost in a fencing project. A standard boundary fence might need 1–3 gates, each adding $300–$2,000+ to the total.
Material comparison
| Material | Cost/m installed | Lifespan | Maintenance |
|---|---|---|---|
| Colorbond steel | $85–$130 | 20–30 years | Very low (occasional wash) |
| Treated pine paling | $65–$100 | 10–15 years | Medium (stain every 3–5 yrs) |
| Hardwood timber | $120–$200 | 20–30 years | Medium (oil every 2–3 yrs) |
| Aluminium slat | $150–$300 | 25+ years | Very low |
| Rendered block | $250–$500 | 30–50+ years | Low (repaint every 10 yrs) |
Your realistic budgeting formula
Better yet, skip the per-metre calculations entirely and get three proper on-site quotes. A good fencer will walk the boundary, note the slope, check soil conditions, count gates and corners, and factor everything in before quoting. Per-metre advertising rates are for marketing, not for budgeting.
For detailed fencing prices in your area, see our Fencing Cost Guide.